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Showing posts from December, 2023

A new hat

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I never imagined that a piece of headwear could so deeply impact my travels, but here I am, in the windy lanes of the Netherlands, wearing a gaucho hat – a Patagonian beret. It's a tale that began with an encounter that was as unexpected as it was enlightening. During one of my journeys, I met a man known as "MONTAÑÉS ERRANTE." His name, translating to "Wandering Mountaineer," was as enigmatic as his persona. He introduced me to the gaucho hat, a traditional piece worn by the gauchos of Patagonia. These hats, he explained, are designed to withstand the fierce Patagonian winds, making them practically glued to your head even in the most blustery conditions. I was intrigued. As someone who has faced the relentless gusts of The Netherlands, I immediately saw the practicality of such a hat. But it wasn't just about utility. There was something more – a connection to a distant land, a touch of a foreign culture resting atop my head. The gaucho hat, with its simpl

Learning from the Last Gauchos

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In the sweeping, untamed landscapes of Patagonia, I recently embarked on a journey that brought me closer to a fading way of life. Here, amidst the vast "estepa," I encountered the gauchos, those enigmatic figures who have long been the soul of these wild lands. Their number dwindling, these guardians of tradition ride their horses with a grace that speaks of a deep connection to the earth. Feeling a stirring within, a desire to bridge my digital existence with the raw pulse of nature, I reached out to a gaucho. He agreed to teach me the basics of horse riding, a skill that seemed almost primal in its essence. As I mounted the horse and we set off, there was a palpable sense of stepping into a world where time moved to the rhythm of nature, not technology. Riding through the Patagonian estepa was a revelation. The vast sky stretched above us, a canvas of freedom, as the horse moved with a rhythm that seemed to echo the heartbeat of the earth itself. It was a poignant reminder

Stranded

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As I lay here on the cold, unyielding floor of El Calafate’s tiny airport, the cacophony of a raging storm outside echoes my tumultuous thoughts. Argentina has been engulfed by an unprecedented tempest, turning schedules into mere suggestions. My flight, once a certain passage back home, now hangs in limbo, cancelled by nature’s unforgiving hand. The airport, usually a gateway to adventure, feels more like a prison tonight. The walls seem to close in, mirroring the storm’s oppressive embrace. I am a castaway, not on a remote island, but in a sea of uncertainty, surrounded by fellow wayfarers, each with their own untold stories. Time, that ever-elusive concept, stretches and contracts around me. It’s in these moments of enforced stillness that I find myself contemplating its true nature. Is time a relentless march forward, or a malleable fabric, shaped by our experiences and perceptions? As I pen these lines, the storm rages on, indifferent to the chaos it has wrought. Yet, amidst this

The Perito Moreno Glacier

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  Today's adventure took me to the grandeur of Perito Moreno Glacier, a natural wonder named after the notable Francisco Perito Moreno. This colossal ice formation, nestled near the town of El Calafate, is a sight to behold. As I approached, its sheer size was overwhelming, stretching out like a frozen, undulating sea. There's a long hiking trail that runs alongside the glacier, offering a chance to witness its magnificence up close. The trail winds through the landscape, allowing hikers to fully immerse themselves in the raw beauty of this icy giant. Each step brought a new perspective, a new angle to appreciate the glacier's vastness. One of the most thrilling aspects of visiting Perito Moreno is watching chunks of ice calve off and crash into the lake below. These icefalls are not just visually stunning but also audibly dramatic. The sound of ice breaking and tumbling resonates through the valley, a powerful reminder of nature's force. It's a sound that you feel

Conquering Fitz Roy: A Hike into the Heart of Patagonia

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  Today was an extreme hiking adventure as we conquered the challenging Fitz Roy hike. The journey to the base was a grueling 23-kilometer hike, filled with rocky paths and steep ascents that tested our endurance. Surprisingly, there were many fellow hikers, adding to the difficulty. But reaching the base was awe-inspiring. Despite the strong winds, the clear day unveiled the majestic Fitz Roy, also known as the Chaltén. It stood proud with a wispy cloud hovering above, casting an ethereal aura. The frozen lagoon and glacier were breathtaking. The pain and exhaustion were worth the magnificent view. The descent, especially the last two kilometers, was treacherous with loose rocks. It is not for the faint-hearted or those unaccustomed to such terrain. It was a risky venture, but the rewards of the day's conquest overshadowed the perils of the path. Arriving back, we were utterly spent, the 23-kilometer journey through this rugged route proving to be an extreme test of endur