The Van Helsing Diaries

I never imagined that a piece of headwear could so deeply impact my travels, but here I am, in the windy lanes of the Netherlands, wearing a gaucho hat – a Patagonian beret. It's a tale that began with an encounter that was as unexpected as it was enlightening. During one of my journeys, I met a man known as "MONTAÑÉS ERRANTE." His name, translating to "Wandering Mountaineer," was as enigmatic as his persona. He introduced me to the gaucho hat, a traditional piece worn by the gauchos of Patagonia. These hats, he explained, are designed to withstand the fierce Patagonian winds, making them practically glued to your head even in the most blustery conditions. I was intrigued. As someone who has faced the relentless gusts of The Netherlands, I immediately saw the practicality of such a hat. But it wasn't just about utility. There was something more – a connection to a distant land, a touch of a foreign culture resting atop my head. The gaucho hat, with its simpl...

In the sweeping, untamed landscapes of Patagonia, I recently embarked on a journey that brought me closer to a fading way of life. Here, amidst the vast "estepa," I encountered the gauchos, those enigmatic figures who have long been the soul of these wild lands. Their number dwindling, these guardians of tradition ride their horses with a grace that speaks of a deep connection to the earth. Feeling a stirring within, a desire to bridge my digital existence with the raw pulse of nature, I reached out to a gaucho. He agreed to teach me the basics of horse riding, a skill that seemed almost primal in its essence. As I mounted the horse and we set off, there was a palpable sense of stepping into a world where time moved to the rhythm of nature, not technology. Riding through the Patagonian estepa was a revelation. The vast sky stretched above us, a canvas of freedom, as the horse moved with a rhythm that seemed to echo the heartbeat of the earth itself. It was a poignant reminder...

As I lay here on the cold, unyielding floor of El Calafate’s tiny airport, the cacophony of a raging storm outside echoes my tumultuous thoughts. Argentina has been engulfed by an unprecedented tempest, turning schedules into mere suggestions. My flight, once a certain passage back home, now hangs in limbo, cancelled by nature’s unforgiving hand. The airport, usually a gateway to adventure, feels more like a prison tonight. The walls seem to close in, mirroring the storm’s oppressive embrace. I am a castaway, not on a remote island, but in a sea of uncertainty, surrounded by fellow wayfarers, each with their own untold stories. Time, that ever-elusive concept, stretches and contracts around me. It’s in these moments of enforced stillness that I find myself contemplating its true nature. Is time a relentless march forward, or a malleable fabric, shaped by our experiences and perceptions? As I pen these lines, the storm rages on, indifferent to the chaos it has wrought. Yet, amidst this ...

  Today's adventure took me to the grandeur of Perito Moreno Glacier, a natural wonder named after the notable Francisco Perito Moreno. This colossal ice formation, nestled near the town of El Calafate, is a sight to behold. As I approached, its sheer size was overwhelming, stretching out like a frozen, undulating sea. There's a long hiking trail that runs alongside the glacier, offering a chance to witness its magnificence up close. The trail winds through the landscape, allowing hikers to fully immerse themselves in the raw beauty of this icy giant. Each step brought a new perspective, a new angle to appreciate the glacier's vastness. One of the most thrilling aspects of visiting Perito Moreno is watching chunks of ice calve off and crash into the lake below. These icefalls are not just visually stunning but also audibly dramatic. The sound of ice breaking and tumbling resonates through the valley, a powerful reminder of nature's force. It's a sound that you feel ...

  Today was an extreme hiking adventure as we conquered the challenging Fitz Roy hike. The journey to the base was a grueling 23-kilometer hike, filled with rocky paths and steep ascents that tested our endurance. Surprisingly, there were many fellow hikers, adding to the difficulty. But reaching the base was awe-inspiring. Despite the strong winds, the clear day unveiled the majestic Fitz Roy, also known as the Chaltén. It stood proud with a wispy cloud hovering above, casting an ethereal aura. The frozen lagoon and glacier were breathtaking. The pain and exhaustion were worth the magnificent view. The descent, especially the last two kilometers, was treacherous with loose rocks. It is not for the faint-hearted or those unaccustomed to such terrain. It was a risky venture, but the rewards of the day's conquest overshadowed the perils of the path. Arriving back, we were utterly spent, the 23-kilometer journey through this rugged route proving to be an extreme test of endur...

  Montevideo greets me with an embrace as familiar as it is foreign. This city, with its chaos reminiscent of central Buenos Aires, carries a rhythm all its own. Here, the dance of daily life is accompanied by the clinking of thermoses and the gentle rustle of 'mate' gourds, as people share sips of the traditional infusion that seems to flow through the city's veins. The streets are a mosaic of modern haste and leisurely charm, with more people than I've seen elsewhere carrying their mate. It's a cultural ballet that I find utterly captivating—a symbol of unity and a testament to the slower pace of life that endures even in the heart of this bustling metropolis. The mate ritual, with its simplicity and camaraderie, adds a layer of allure to the urban tapestry. Amidst the hum of activity, the people of Montevideo carry a kindness that's palpable. Their smiles are easy, their demeanor welcoming. There's a 'vibe' here, an invisible but deeply felt frequ...

  The gentle sway of the boat that ferried me from Buenos Aires to Colonia was but a prelude to the tranquility I found upon setting foot in Uruguay. This small town, a gem untouched by the relentless march of time, welcomed me with open arms and streets brimming with history.Colonia is a tapestry of the past, each cobblestone telling a story. The town's beautiful old buildings stand as proud sentinels of heritage, their walls whispering tales of yore. I meandered through its streets, each turn unveiling another picturesque vista, a tableau of serenity that begged to be captured in a photograph.Among these relics of bygone days, I discovered gourmet boutique restaurants, each offering a feast not only for the palate but for the soul. The laid-back warmth of the local people infused the atmosphere, their welcoming smiles acting as an invitation to partake in the town's quiet revelry.The photos I've taken, mere snapshots, cannot truly capture the essence of Colonia. The vibra...

  As my time in Buenos Aires draws to a close, I find myself in a whirlwind of social engagements, the final act of my stay in this vibrant city. Tomorrow, I set my sights on Uruguay, my next destination in this journey of exploration and discovery.Reflecting on my stay here, it's been a feast in every sense of the word. The culinary delights have been abundant, a parade of flavors and indulgences that will, no doubt, prompt a return to a more ascetic dietary regime once this adventure is over. My physical form will surely appreciate a respite from the gastronomic extravagance that has characterized these past two weeks.Two weeks in Buenos Aires – it’s been enough to whet my appetite for the city's charms, yet not enough to fully satiate it. There's a part of me that yearns for more, more hidden corners to explore, more unseen specters to uncover. But as that old saying goes, "good things are better in small doses." Perhaps leaving with a lingering desire to retur...

    As the sun sets on my nearly two-week sojourn in Buenos Aires, I find myself in a contemplative state, the shadows of my quest beginning to weigh on me. The city, with its vibrant pulse and spectral beauty, has been both a playground and a battleground, where I’ve danced with the ghosts of the past in an endless tango.It’s a peculiar weariness that has started to creep into my bones. Not overwhelming, nor incapacitating, but present nonetheless. It’s as if the city’s energy, while exhilarating, demands its toll in measures of spirit and strength. In the quiet moments, away from the hustle of the streets and the echoes of history that haunt its corners, I feel it most. A subtle, yet insistent reminder of the depth and intensity of this journey.It’s hard to pinpoint exactly what this feeling is. Perhaps it’s the relentless pursuit of shadows that elude capture, or maybe it’s the realization that the line between hunter and haunted is thinner than I once believed. The constan...

   In a city where culinary landscapes seem to be shifting under the weight of modern tastes, today brought a comforting respite. My journey through Buenos Aires has been a tapestry of flavors, some new and unexpected, others nostalgic. Yet, not all reunions with past favorites have been joyous. A recent visit to an empanadas place left me disenchanted – the traditional flavors I yearned for were absent, replaced by incongruous inventions like 'cheeseburger' empanadas. It was a culinary dissonance that echoed the ever-changing appetites of this era.However, tonight, within the walls of "Las Cuartetas," I found a haven of culinary consistency. Two decades had passed since my last visit, but as I bit into their pizza, the flavors were as splendid and familiar as ever. It was a reassuring affirmation that some things do remain true to their roots, unswayed by the tides of time and trend.The atmosphere of "Las Cuartetas" too had retained its vibrant, unpretentio...